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Sharpening Stones |
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Sharpening Jigs |
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| Advantages and Novel Features: | |||||||||||||||||||
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| How It Works: | |||||||||||||||||||
| At first glance you may wonder "Where is the blade?" That's a legitimate question because it is certainly not constructed like any prior plane. You can look at the frog picture directly below to see the construction details. |
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| The thin blade is sandwiched between a massive frog which is 3/4" thick at the bottom and a back-up iron which is 5/32" thick. The leading edge of the frog thus becomes the chipbreaker and guides the shavings up and into the throat. The reverse angle of the frog matches the angle at the front of the throat, so the old problem of throat widening as the sole is trued or worn down is no longer an issue. In fact, you can take over 3/8" off of the sole, and the opening will still be the same! | |||||||||||||||||||
| The frog is adjusted
for blade depth and lateral projection with the two adjusting nuts
at the top of the plane. By being situated at the outer sides of the
frog, adjusting depth also controls lateral adjustment so no separate
lateral adjuster is required. This is a very fast and precise process.
There is one surprising, and I've found helpful, side effect of angling
the frog forward. On traditional planes, to take up backlash the blade
is advanced downward before cutting, so you must guess and be very
watchful as to just when the iron protrudes or - dangit - too far
- back off and try again. On this plane, the opposite happens. The
cutter is advanced and then pulled up to just the right setting. No
guess work. Anyway, backlash is so minimal that adjustments can be
made in either direction most of the time. The large star knob tightens
the frog lock bolt which is captured in a T-slot on the back of the
frog. For normal planing, this knob need only be snug and doesn't
need loosened to make depth adjustments. For very hard woods, it should
be tightened more and loosened slightly before adjusting.
The mouth opening is adjustable without tools by turning the two knurled thumbscrews which bear against the back of the frog. The blade is removed for sharpening by lowering the frog slightly below the sole and loosening the three screws in the back-up iron. The blade is then able to be slid out because it is slotted for the screws. NO GRINDING IS NECESSARY. Because of the thinness of the blade, honing will quickly restore a flat bevel. Of course, a normal honing guide will not work for so small a blade, so we recommend the Blum "Sharpening Box" or you can use the Blum Fixed-Angle Jig. You may also make your own fixed-angle jig out of wood patterned after ours. |
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Types of Woods: Mesquite: Mesquite is our featured wood for planes. It is very hard, heavy, beautiful, and very very stable. It is one of the only woods where the ratio of tangential to radial shrinkage approaches 1:1. Quartersawn Hard Maple: This is used for the sole and body. This is a dense, hard-wearing wood with a very fine grain. We pair this with either Black Walnut or Cherry for the sides and handles. Jatoba: This is an extremely hard and dense wood. Reddish to reddish brown. East Indian Rosewood: Plantation grown. A very striking wood. |
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| Patent Pending. | |||||||||||||||||||
Our Products |
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| To Sharpen Your New Plane | |||||||||||||||||||
For first time plane buyers,
we highly recommend you purchase our fixed angle jig.
It's only $14.95 and is guaranteed to make your sharpening job easy!
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Check Out Our Package Deal
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Watch our Fixed Angle Jig in Action |
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